On Saturday, bars, piazzas, restaurants and communal spaces were thronged with horn-blowing, over-excited supporters. With a midnight start, the celebrating went on long into the night. The World Cup in Rome starts now, but where to watch it? Here are a range of venues with something to suit everyone.
Campo dei Fiori – Roman Piazza, outdoor watching in comfort with drinks brought to your table
La Valle del Sacco – Eat while you watch
Known to me as the Football Restaurant, this blue-tabled-clothed Roman restaurant/pizzeria shows football matches year round. In the back room, the walls are lined will football scarves from around the world. The big screens usually show Italian league matches, but now show matches from each World Cup group including those after midnight. During one England match in 2010, we were so busy tucking into steaks, we had to be told by the disbelieving Italian diners that England had scored. The food must be good.
Via B. Bossi, 4 (off Via Ostiense)
Ex Mattatoio Testaccio – for non-Italian games with music and food
Scholars Lounge – for a traditional pub-watching experience in the heart of Rome
Blackmarket Tiber – for a cool, river side game with DJ set too
![]() |
Blackmarket Tiber Facebook page |
Every summer, Rome opens its river banks to bars, restaurants, stalls and even a cinema. What could be better than sitting by the side of the River Tiber as you watch a match, escaping at least in part the heat of a Roman evening? Having moved for the summer from their usual dark and dingy (in the best possible way) home in Monti, Blackmarket has comfy squishy chairs and a relaxed atmosphere in which to sip your beer, wine or cocktails as you watch. There is a good and unusual aperitivo too instead of the usual football watching fare.