Testaccio is not a tourist area, rather a former working-class, fairly undisturbed residential area. As our guide pointed out, so much not a tourist area it is quite literally off the tourist map. We were going to eat real Roman food and meet some of the people who make it. For people new to Rome, or visiting for the first time, something few can experience. So much did I enjoy it, I thought I’d give you a glimpse – if only to make you very hungry. 

 

First stop and breakfast at Barberini. I have a number of confessions to make and the first is this; I don’t really like Italian croissants (called cornetti – croissants is a misnomer). But these little tasty treats were served warm and flaky and were followed swiftly by a little tiramisu served in a chocolate cup. Did we know that tiramisu means ‘pick-me-up’? Well these certainly did. So good they were ‘worth the price of the tour alone’ said Sandra.

  
From here we walked to the new Testaccio market. I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t been to the market since it was transferred from its former home in Piazza Testaccio. I was sad to see the old market go, but in its bright new shiny surrounds, busy, noisy and full of people of all ages shopping, discussing recipes, strolling, snacking, dog walking; it’s a great example of what a market should be. 

Photo by Chiara

 

Despite its new location, stalls in this market have been in families for generations. Our tomato suppliers, Paula and Francesca took over from their grandmother; Enzo (working since he was 14) and Lina’s stall supplies greedy shoppers with buffala di mozzarella only 12 hours old.

My sort of ‘girls on tour’ tour.

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